Making guide / Finishing
How to finish kinusaiga edges and fit a frame
The picture is not finished when the final region is tucked. A visible foam side, loose backing or a frame opening that is slightly too small can change the result. Plan the edge before cutting the base: it determines the actual board dimensions and whether a pattern printed for a nominal frame size will fit.
1. Measure the usable opening
Measure the space inside your frame, not just the number printed on its package. Check both width and depth with the backing in place. A maker using an 8-inch shadowbox in the Electric Quilt tutorial cut the foam to 7.5 inches. Enter your own measured board size in our pattern tool, or use a fixed-size PDF only when its stated board dimensions match.
2. Try the side finish on an offcut
A narrow ribbon, fabric wrap or frame lip can cover a raw foam edge. Test your chosen material around a corner on an offcut. Can it cover the full side and the back edge without bunching? In a community edge-finishing discussion, a maker found that ribbon looked awkward beside the felt backing; replies suggested wider ribbon and changing the folding order. That illustrates why the backing and side should be planned together.
Adhesives can behave differently on foam, ribbon and fabric. Test a small piece, follow the product instructions and allow it to set before applying anything to your finished board. Keep excess glue and tape away from the grooves you still need to tuck.
3. Check the back and final fit
- Trim any loose fabric ends without cutting into the tucked front.
- Try the edge finish and backing on one side first; check the corners from the front.
- Fit the board into the frame without forcing it or compressing the picture.
- Check that the hanging method supports the entire finished board and frame.
For the print stage, see actual-size printing and page assembly.
These are planning steps based on linked maker examples. We have not physically tested a frame or finishing material with the patterns on this site yet.